Sicily, this land, once inspired the great Italian writer Andrea Camilleri’s “Inspector Montalbano” series of crime novels. The captivating stories, written with his immense talent, not only bring us a series of fascinating tales but also endow one of Italy’s unique indigenous grape varieties, the Perricone (also known as Pignatello) grape, with one of the most mysterious histories in the world of grape varieties.
The life of this grape variety has undergone continuous changes and “dramatic plots.” It was born and grew in the western part of Sicily, between Palermo and Trapani provinces, where it is often called “Pignatello” in the local dialect due to its cultivation in the red clayey soil known as “Pignatidare” in the Trapani province. In the Agrigento province, it is known by the name “Perricone,” which is said to be related to a Spanish family that migrated to the region.
The variety was first described by Sicilian grape cultivation scholar Nicosia in the 18th century. Particularly, in the late 18th and early 19th centuries, it gradually gained prominence, reaching a planting area of about 34,000 hectares and being mentioned in grape variety records. During those years, its reputation was closely tied to another great symbol of Sicilian grape cultivation and winemaking—the Marsala wine.
Indeed, even back then, Perricone was one of the foundational varieties for making Marsala wine, especially for the red variant (Rubino, or Ruby). Due to its relatively gentle sensory characteristics compared to other Sicilian grape varieties, it acted as a “softener” in grape juice and its rich tannins contributed to the extended aging process of Marsala wine.
In the second half of the 19th century, the outbreak of the grape phylloxera in Sicily and throughout Italy dealt a severe blow to this grape variety. Its structural characteristics made it particularly susceptible to this pest, which was rapidly spreading and causing devastation throughout Italy.
However, it was during this time that Perricone, as a component of Marsala wine, managed to survive the terrible period of the grape phylloxera. Despite the challenging circumstances, Marsala wine continued to have a significant market globally, and all grape varieties associated with it, including Perricone, remained in the market.
From the 20th century to today, the fate of Perricone is primarily attributed to the few Sicilian producers who persisted in believing in this variety with a tumultuous history and complex morphological and sensory characteristics. These characteristics are often challenging to manage, but these producers have always persisted, allowing Perricone to endure.
Among the most visionary producers, Paolo Favuzza undoubtedly stands out. He founded the Tenute Mokarta winery in Salemi, Mokarta Mountain, Trapani province, in 1916. The winery is currently in its fourth generation, with the latest heir being Mario (Paul’s great-grandson). The estate covers 45 hectares, with 8 hectares planted with ancient Perricone vines. These vines are located about 7 kilometers from the Marsala coastline, at an altitude of 450 meters, in soil consisting of a medium-grain sandy-clay mixture. This land nurtures about 60,000 bottles of pure Perricone wine, all organically cultivated, following principles of ecological sustainability.
Alternatively, we can travel not far from the Ionian Sea coast in Sicily to Menfi, specifically in the Belicello area of the Agrigento province, where Marilena Barbera runs the Barbera winery. Since her father’s death in 2006, she has inherited 15 hectares of ancient vineyards, including 1.5 hectares of Perricone grapes (as well as clones of other varieties). Despite this vineyard being close to the sea and situated on predominantly clayey soil, Marilena still produces certified biodynamic wines and is a member of the Italian Federation of Independent Winegrowers (FIVI).
When discussing Perricone, it’s impossible not to mention the important work of Professor Attilio Scienza from the University of Milan in recent years. He is a key figure in the second phase of the history of this ancient grape variety, further concentrating on its genetic research, revealing how it evolved from aromatic grapes brought to Sicily during the Greek colonization, which occurred in the eastern Mediterranean. Professor Attilio Scienza should receive credit for this advancement, as his research has provided deeper insights into the history of Perricone.
Today, the planted area of Perricone vineyards is only 192 hectares, accounting for 0.3% of the total grape cultivation area in Sicily. However, its quality level is higher. Currently, this variety continues to be used for producing Marsala red wine (Ruby) and more than a dozen other DOC certified wines.