Exploring the gentle hills of Bologna, specifically in the territory of Monteveglio, we encounter the Ognibene family. This ancient lineage of wine producers who have dedicated their lives to the study, research, preservation, protection, and promotion of the indigenous grape varieties found in the Bolognese wine landscape. Their commitment extends not only to the oldest and rarest varieties but also to the more recent, both known and lesser-known ones.
In 1840, Angelo Ognibene founded Cantina Gradizzolo right in the heart of the Bolognese Apennine territory. This legacy was then passed down from generation to generation to Silvio and Luigi, the grandfather and father, respectively, of the current patriarch of the family, Antonio Ognibene. Antonio is currently carrying on the family’s winemaking dynasty together with his children, Chiara and Gianluca.
The Ognibene family cultivates all these native grape varieties on their 7 hectares of medium-textured land, consisting of calastrino (a type of clay-limestone soil) and marine sand. They transform them through a niche production process, resulting in a few thousand bottles.
Speaking with Antonio Ognibene, a true “human encyclopedia” of Bolognese native grape varieties, it is very easy to navigate through all of them with a 360-degree perspective.
Starting with red grape varieties, few people know that one of the most famous autochthonous grape varieties of Piedmont, namely Barbera, also finds an autochthonous variant in this territory with Barbera Bolognese.
Centuries ago, the Bolognese agronomist and writer Pietro de’ Crescenzi was sent to Asti as the responsible for territorial jurisdiction. During his time there, he discovered a grape variety that closely resembled the one cultivated in the hills of Bologna, where it was called “Glissa,” meaning gray grape, due to its unique grayish bloom (resembling gunpowder dust). De’ Crescenzi immediately realized that the “Glissa” was, in fact, an autochthonous Bolognese variant of the Piedmontese Barbera, which had descended to Emilia from the Monferrato region through the Oltrepò Pavese.
Today, in the Bolognese region, this grape variety gives rise to the Barbera DOC denominations. Another indigenous red grape variety in Bologna is the extremely rare Negretto or Negrettino Bolognese. It is said that this ancient autochthonous vine did not arrive in Bologna with any particular people but rather spontaneously originated in this strip of Emilian land. In fact, for many elderly winemakers in the area, it represents the only true indigenous red grape variety of the Bolognese hills.
At that time, the Bolognese Negretto(ino) was blended with Barbera Bolognese, giving rise to what was known as the ‘black wine of Bologna’ by the local farming community. However, those fortunate enough to still possess a few grapevines or even a small vineyard of this variety now vinify it as a single varietal wine. Naturally, the quantities produced are extremely limited, and it is classified under the Emilia IGT denomination.
Moving on to white grape varieties, we find Alionza and Pignoletto: Alionza is an extremely rare variety characterized by an anomaly: the clusters have smaller and larger berries, some of which reach significant sizes. Alionza gives rise to fragrant, fresh wines that are not overly complex and have a strong varietal character.
And finally, we have Pignoletto, the most widely vinified and commercially renowned autochthonous grape variety in the Bologna region. It is known to have been brought to the hills of Bologna by the ancient Etruscans who crossed the Apennines.
The elderly people of Bologna used to confuse this grape variety with Alionza, and it was then called “Alionzina.” The name later transformed into Pignolino and eventually Pignoletto, due to the oval and elongated shape of the berries resembling pine cones.
It is known in its sparkling version, but it yields excellent results both still and as a passito wine. In the Bologna area, it is produced under the denomination DOC Pignoletto.
