Author：Alessandro Brizi
Just twenty years ago, talking about Primitivo meant delving into a maze of anecdotes where reality and fantasy often overlapped. The documentation on this grape variety was still too obscure and unclear, although there were certainly determined individuals eager to embark on new oenological experiments. Today, we can say that while there is still much to discover, starting with the expressive capacity of individual Crus, Primitivo and its viticulture have found worthy representatives in various areas of Puglia.
It is certainly interesting to explore this grape variety starting with its familial ties, which were the subject of study at the University of Davis in California. In the mid-1990s, Professor Carole Meredith demonstrated the genetic identity between Primitivo and Zinfandel. However, the origins of this variety remain uncertain, as some theories suggest it is a genetic derivation of Pinot from Burgundy, possibly imported to Italy by Benedictine monks, who, along with other monastic orders, were responsible for reviving viticulture in the medieval period. Other hypotheses propose a possible Austro-Hungarian origin or an introduction by Illyrian settlers.
What is certain today is that in the lands of the Messapians and along the Itria Valley, famous for its trulli, the charming buildings with typical conical roofs, Primitivo has found its favored home. Depending on the area, this variety can express different nuances in the glass, some more pronounced than others.
The most evident diversity is found between Manduria and Gioia del Colle: the former is characterized by very early ripening, due to higher temperatures and the lack of elevations (the surface remains within 100 meters above sea level), while the latter, with vineyards located up to 350 meters above sea level, has a generally later ripening profile. The soils, inevitably, also have their share of influence. The Gravine area in Alta Murgia features very compact karstic soils, with profiles carved by real canyons in the rock. In these hollows, in a predominantly hilly landscape, the wind is always present, naturally helping to prevent potential fungal diseases. The wines from these areas have a notable acidity, with slender profiles and restrained residual sugars. The temperature variations also favor a higher concentration of floral aromas compared to the fruitier notes that abound in the Primitivos of Manduria and Sava, thanks to the red soils, which give these wines real power. Just south of Manduria, towards Campomarino and Maruggio, one finds greater finesse in the glass, due to the white soils, where the soil composition is largely sandy. Between San Marzano and Fragagnano, finally, the black soils, similar to the red ones, confer great power and richer fruit, thanks to the good presence of clay in the soil.
When talking about Primitivo, it is impossible not to mention Gianfranco Fino, who recently inaugurated his Wine Resort in Manduria, a true cathedral in the desert. He was a true pioneer and visionary in the revaluation of this grape variety, starting with century-old vines and working on very low yields of around 300-400 grams per plant, to achieve a standard of absolute excellence.
There are two denominations in Puglia that bear the name Primitivo: DOCG Primitivo di Manduria Dolce Naturale and DOC Primitivo di Manduria. In addition, there is the Gioia del Colle denomination, with the possibility of vinifying in purity and indicating the variety’s name on the label.
Wines made from Primitivo grapes are typically rich in color, often impenetrable, appearing ruby in their younger expressions with garnet reflections due to aging. The aromatic profile is typically fruity, marked by notes of black cherry, plum, blackberry, and strawberry, and is enriched with toasted and spicy tones with maturation in wood. The palate is luscious, full, and soft, refreshed by a pleasant acidity that lightens a taste guaranteed to be powerful yet with soft, velvety tannins, never aggressive. The often significant alcohol volume, ranging from 14-15%, increases the sensation of “sweetness” on the palate, sometimes aided by a slight residual sugar.
When pairing, it is important to consider the opulence that a Primitivo can unleash without necessarily burdening it with overly complex dishes, but rather seeking the right balance to enhance its organoleptic characteristics. A grilled meat dish, or Puglian “bombette” (stuffed pork rolls) could find a happy marriage with it, as well as a slow-cooked horse stew. Alternatively, with a Primitivo from Gioia del Colle, one could choose the quintessential regional dish, orecchiette with turnip greens. Clearly, cured meats will also be ideal, starting with Capocollo from Martina Franca. The softness of Primitivo wines, their balanced taste, and the intense aromas of ripe fruit also make them perfect with many typical beef or pork dishes from Sichuan cuisine, as well as with the spicy dishes of Hunan tradition, such as the famous Chairman Mao’s Red-Braised Pork Belly.
If you want to treat yourself to an after-dinner taste, you could choose the Primitivo di Manduria Dolce Naturale, whose fermentation stops, as the name suggests, in a “natural” way, leaving a residual sugar content of no less than 50 g/l. Ideal with almond-based desserts, you could also try it with quality dark chocolate, or to accompany blue or aged cheeses. Finally, it can also be enjoyed on its own, especially when faced with an old vintage, richer in tertiary components, offering an authentic moment of pleasurable meditation.
