WineChannel reporter: We are joined by Davide Frascari, President of the Emilia-Romagna wineries, to take a look at one of the world’s most exported and popular wines: Lambrusco! What are the origins of Lambrusco and how did it come by?
Lambrusco is a grape variety with a history of several hundred years. In the Lambrusco family tree, Lambrusco di Sorbara is the oldest and one of the least domesticated grape varieties of history. In fact, it is characterized by its dislike of fertile soils and low yields, and the “ancestral” characteristic that makes it an antique grape variety.
WineChannel reporter: How would you describe Lambrusco’s rise to prominence today?
My ancestors used to tell me that Lambrusco was usually grown at the edge of the fields, in this part of Emilia fodder for cattle was the mainstay of its industry. It was here that Parmigiano Reggiano, one of the oldest cheeses in the world, was born, and it was on the edge of this land that the wild Lambrusco grape began to be grown. Once marginal cultivation, through the ages, it has preserved not only a single grape variety, but also a differentiated evolutionary process. History is not forgotten and values should be cherished.
WineChannel reporter: When we talk about the word Lambrusco, we usually talk about the whole Lambrusco family, but what are the different grape varieties in this family?
In terms of planting area, the most widespread is Lambrusco Salamino, as it accounts for almost 40% of all the field, and it is common in both the Modena region and the Reggiano region, both of which grow around 90% or more of the Lambrusco grape variety. The followed by Lambrusco Grasparossa in second place, planted mainly on hillsides. Then there is Lambrusco di Sorbara, a grape variety common in the plains, which has disadvantages such as pollination difficulties. In fact, it is planted alternately with Lambrusco Salamino: for example, two rows of Lambrusco di Sorbara alternate with one row of Lambrusco Salamino that helps to compensate for the difficulties of pollination. These are the three most important, and then we have some historic Lambrusco varieties, where the road to recovery is still tough, because the enhancement of consumer satisfaction beyond ordinary food must be the primary premise of today’s wine as a social medium.
WineChannel reporter: What characteristics do the various Lambrusco varieties have in common?
The final step of all the Lambrusco grapes made into wine is becoming sparkling wines, which means, that this process of converting sugar into alcohol and natural carbon dioxide is the overall characteristic of Lambrusco. The wine is naturally sparkling, it does not become so through a process such as emulsification, as a natural wine. Long ago, Lambrusco was made almost exclusively by re-fermentation in the bottle, a method that today only occurs in some of Lambrusco’s niche and prized wines.
WineChannel reporter: What is the approximate percentage of exports?
53% of Lambrusco production is exported, so that today more Lambrusco is exported than the total domestic consumption, 85% of which is concentrated in the Emilia Romagna, Veneto and Lombardy regions, i.e. in the north-central part of Italy, and exports have also increased in recent years in the more southern parts of Italy, almost exceeding 50% of the total.
WineChannel reporter: Are Lambrusco wines popular?
An important reason why consumers like this wine so much is probably its low alcohol content, which is around 6.5 degrees. Because some of the sugar is not fully converted into the secondary alcoholic fermentation. Lambrusco is known for being one of the wines with the lowest alcohol content, that means it can also be tasted at the end of a meal as an aperitif, thus appealing to today’s many different age groups of consumers.
WineChannel reporter: Does the procedure of vinification change depending on the variety?
Lambrusco can come in different versions of red or rosé, and there are even white Lambrusco wines, i.e. wines that separate the skins and avoid coloring the wine. However, the trend of consumption is rapidly shifting towards Lambrusco rosé, as it can easily be paired with any dish, even the famous chef Bottura paired Lambrusco rosé with oysters, and it complements fish well. Lambrusco has cleared the hurdles and prejudices compared to a few decades ago, when it was considered low to mid-range wine suited for instant consumption.
WineChannel Reporter: Lambrusco is one of the most popular wines in the world, what is the reason for this trend?
The reasons for this include, among other things, the relatively low alcohol content and diversity of the wines, which can easily be paired perfectly with different dishes, allowing the consumer to experience different experiences. In my opinion, the wine’s high acidity compared to other wines, adds to its appeal. Second, the media and associations have played an important role in promoting wine around the world, and even smaller producers are actively communicating with one another. Wine tourism has also been very beneficial, taking advantage of being favorably geographically located in the center of Italy, with easy access to it.
WineChannel Reporter: Can you recommend a perfect match besides the previously mentioned factors?
Yesterday I had lunch with a client. We had fish and oysters with Lambrusco di Sorbara sparkling wine, after then we had lasagna, ravioli, typical Emilian dishes with the stronger Lambrusco wines. Italy, we are part of a gastronomic kingdom that brings together most of the European DOC and DOCG regions, such as Parmigiano Reggiano, a unique product in the world because of its flavor and the way it is produced, even with a long history of 1000 years. It is also a paradise for cars: we have the most famous brands, from Ferrari to Maserati and Ducati motorbikes. It is also the cradle of great artists and singers, who have created countless stars, from Pavarotti to Vasco and Ligabue. They represent the land and have made a remarkable contribution to the Emilian people’s affirmation in the world.