Interview with Marco Stefanini, president of the new association advocating for an emerging and eco-sustainable sector. Topics include disease-resistant grape varieties, the situation in Italy, and political awareness efforts. The eagerly anticipated debut of the first international fair on this theme in Verona.
“It’s a historic moment for Italian viticulture. Anyone starting to plant resistant grape varieties can join the Piwi Italia association. Founded last January, it now boasts over 250 producers,” commented the newly appointed president Marco Stefanini, head of the “Genetics and Grapevine Breeding Unit” at the Research and Innovation Center of the Edmund Mach Foundation in San Michele all’Adige (TN), the association’s headquarters.
The Gazzetta del Gusto directly asked President Stefanini, with Vice President Riccardo Velasco, Director of the Research Center in Viticulture and Enology (CREA-VE) in Conegliano (TV), why Piwi Italia was founded, what its objectives are, and what the prospects are for wines produced from fungus-resistant grapevines.
What is PIWI?
Let’s start by clarifying the fundamental concept: what are Piwi wines and Piwi grape varieties?
“Piwi is an abbreviation of the German word ‘pilzwiderstandsfähig’, which literally means: fungus-resistant grapevine. From a technical standpoint, Piwi vines are natural hybrids between European Vitis Vinifera and other Vitis species of American and/or Asian origin that carry resistance genes. These plants are capable of defending themselves against major grapevine diseases such as downy mildew, which devastated production in certain areas this year, for example, in Abruzzo.
Resistance should not be confused with immunity, nor is it correct to define it as tolerance. In simple terms, the plant produces ‘antibodies’ against the fungus; when attacked, a chain of genes activates to counteract the disease.
Piwi vines are synonymous with greater environmental compatibility, fewer treatments, increased consumer health protection, improved quality of life for vineyard workers and nearby residents, and also mean reduced CO2 emissions. For all these reasons, from an organoleptic standpoint, a wine made from Piwi grape varieties cannot be considered qualitatively inferior to conventional wines.”
“Piwi is an abbreviation of the German word ‘pilzwiderstandsfähig’, which literally means: fungus-resistant grapevine. From a technical standpoint, Piwi vines are natural hybrids between European Vitis Vinifera and other Vitis species of American and/or Asian origin that carry resistance genes. These plants are capable of defending themselves against major grapevine diseases such as downy mildew, which devastated production in certain areas this year, for example, in Abruzzo.
Resistance should not be confused with immunity, nor is it correct to define it as tolerance. In simple terms, the plant produces ‘antibodies’ against the fungus; when attacked, a chain of genes activates to counteract the disease.
Piwi vines are synonymous with greater environmental compatibility, fewer treatments, increased consumer health protection, improved quality of life for vineyard workers and nearby residents, and also mean reduced CO2 emissions. For all these reasons, from an organoleptic standpoint, a wine made from Piwi grape varieties cannot be considered qualitatively inferior to conventional wines.”
How many Piwi varieties exist in Italy and how are they distributed?
“There are approximately 600 varieties of Vitis vinifera registered in the National Register of Grapevine Varieties, while the 36 Resistant Varieties currently listed in the National Register cannot replace 600 genotypes. Therefore, it makes no sense to speak of antagonism between indigenous and Piwi varieties. Our research aims to provide grape growers with an increasing number of resistant varieties to enhance their terroir by using those most suitable.
I emphasize again that the 36 currently authorized varieties cannot be planted everywhere. For example, Souvignier Gris is widely spread, but there are many other varieties that can be planted, after careful evaluation.”
“Some names of Piwi varieties include: Bronner, Johanniter, Soreli, Solaris, Fleuertai, Sauvignon Kretos, Regent, Cabernet Kortis, Merlot Khorus, Merlot Kanthus; just to name a few. President Stefanini continues: ‘Our country has taken a different path compared to other European states; the use of resistant varieties in vineyards has not been nationally authorized. Italy has delegated this decision to the regions, and some, like Veneto, have promptly facilitated the planting of these vineyards. They then granted authorization to viticulturists to plant these varieties.
“Today, Piwi Italia includes Trentino, Alto Adige, Lombardy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, and Piedmont (the founding regions along with Veneto), as well as Emilia Romagna, Marche, Abruzzo, Lazio, and Campania. In terms of numbers, Veneto leads the way followed by Friuli-Venezia Giulia, albeit with half the authorized varieties compared to Veneto.”
“The founding members of Piwi Italia are the presidents of the existing regional Piwi associations:
Daniele Piccinin from Azienda Agricola Le Carline in Pramaggiore (Ve) for Veneto, Thomas Niedermayr from Hof Gandberg estate in Appiano sulla Strada del Vino for Alto Adige, Antonio Gottardi from Cantina La-Vis e Valle di Cembra for Trentino, Stefano Gri from Cantina Trezero in Valvasone (Pn) for Friuli Venezia Giulia, Alessandro Sala from Nove Lune in Cenate Sopra (Bg) for Lombardy, and Pier Guido Ceste from his eponymous estate in Govone (Cn) for Piedmont.”
Piwi and climate change
You emphasize the need to consider Piwi varieties in light of climate change. Why?
“Viticulture, despite occupying only 3% of Europe’s agricultural land, consumes 65% of all fungicides used in agriculture, totaling 68 thousand tons annually (source: Assoenologi/Vini e Viti Resistenti). The widespread use of pathogenic agents, mitigated by heavy chemical interventions to safeguard yields, increasingly clashes with the new socio-economic concept of ecological transition, healthiness, and environmental conservation. Thus, conventional viticulture is becoming increasingly challenging in this context.
Therefore, Piwi Italia’s mission to research new, diverse, and resistant varieties aims to ensure a sustainable and healthy future for agricultural activities, pivotal for vineyard preservation, the well-being of those who work in it, and the quality of the wine produced.
Additionally, considering the ongoing climate changes, there is a pressing need to identify new varieties that can better adapt to the altered conditions.”
Initiatives on Piwi
The topic of Piwi grape varieties and wines is destined to gain more and more attention. In Milan, last November, the first wine bar dedicated to Piwi wines, called “Dipende che Vino,” was established. There is also a website dedicated to the topic, vinievitiresistenti.it by Luca Gonzato. Piwi wines are discussed in seminars and conferences on environmental and agricultural sustainability. The Piwi wine showcase organized by the Fondazione Mach is in its third edition, and in Abruzzo, the Pink Panel, a unique all-female group of wine lovers, organized a tasting event featuring Piwi wines from Cantina Le Carezze, Terre di Ger, Jasci Donatello, and Savian.
High anticipation surrounds the first industry fair dedicated to Piwi, “Irresistibile Piwi.”
“Irresistibile Piwi” Wine Festival and Market Fair
A showcase entirely dedicated to national and international Piwi wines scheduled for Friday, May 24th, and Saturday, May 25th at Sala Margherita in PalaExpo, Fiera Verona. This event represents a culmination of knowledge, friendships, and projects, bringing together grape growers, winemakers, experts, researchers, and national and regional Piwi associations. In addition to wines, visitors will find technical and educational sessions, nurserymen and suppliers of Piwi materials, breeders and selectors, as well as tastings of experimental microvinifications.
The event is open to grape growers, wine technicians, wine enthusiasts, market operators, restaurants, and press professionals.
The organizers, Luca De Palma, an Italian winemaker active in Ticino, and Igor Bonvento, a Veronese winemaker and agronomic consultant, have been working with resistant grape varieties for some time in various capacities. They collaborate with all associations in this niche market and actively organize technical meetings and tastings to expand knowledge about new varieties and promote them, including through social media platforms like PiwiTastingFriends.