A tasting of intoxicating Italian bubbles, from Ca del Bosco and Ferrari to the preciousness of Sicily
For lovers of bubbles, Italy is now waiting to be discovered and no longer stops only in Trentino, Franciacorta and Oltrepò. Sparkling winemaking has now successfully crossed the Rubicon, which is bringing great results to areas of Italy that were certainly not famous for their perlage until a few years ago. Over 200 labels are the result of the passion and research of more than 70 Italian winemakers, in which the bubbles Made in Abruzzo, Puglia and Sicily stand out and receive approval, which have nothing to envy to the most famous colleagues.
In the suggestive tasting we will cross Italy and discover unusual and surprising sparkling wines.
The journey starts from Trentino and does not disappoint the Chardonnay Trento which ages on the lees for over 10 years and gives life to Giulio Ferrari Riserva del Fondatore Extra Brut 2008 . Just as the minerality and flavor of the Trento Riserva Madame Martis Brut 2009 by Maso Martis conquer the palates, which combines the elegance of Pinot Noir with the fragrance of Chardonnay and the softness of Meunier, in 9 years of aging.
From Trentino we pass to Lombardy, with a passage in the Franciacorta district. Always exciting to be seduced by a glass of Franciacorta Riserva Cuvée Annamaria Clementi Dosage Zéro 2009, by Ca ‘del Bosco. On the palate the blend Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco and Pinot Nero aged for 7 years, never betray the intense olfactory bouquet. A nice discovery also for the 5 harvests from Chardonnay grapes only, for Uberti’s Franciacorta Quinque Extra Brut. In one sip, expression and synthesis, memory and uniqueness.
Remaining in Lombardy, the perlage path then arrives in Oltrepò Pavese, with Prime Alture, a winery in Casteggio (Pv), which last year passed the threshold of the first ten harvests and makes Pinot Noir its muse. The bubble tasted is Classic Method Io per Te Blanc de Noir which remains 36 months on the lees, as evidenced by the fine and persistent perlage, the fine and elegant bouquet, with notes of white pulp fruit, such as peach, accompanied by hints of dried fruit and crust of freshly baked bread. Arriving in Veneto, one is fascinated by Durello, protected by a tenacious and lively Consortium . Durello is a white wine, originally from the calcareous territory that extends between Verona and Vicenza, characterized by savory notes. Among the many bubbles tasted, the Durello Metodo Classico Doc 36 Extra Brut Riserva Sacramundi stands out, which comes from vineyards at 380 meters above sea level, where the exposure to the east, the microclimate and the thermal shock allow the optimal ripening of the grapes. . The aging of 36 months on the lees characterizes it for its complexity and intensity, giving an all-round sensory experience.
But it is by starting to descend along the beautiful country that the tasting becomes more intriguing. So arriving in Abruzzo, one cannot fail to be seduced by the elegance of the fine and persistent perlage that caresses the palate the skilful combination of Chardonnay and Pinot nero del Marramiero Brut Classic method . Selected grapes, characterized by different stages of maturation, which referment and refine in the bottle for 36 months, giving a bouquet of fruity aromas with unmistakable hints of bread crust.
To taste Khaos Ancestrale , bubbles fruit of the Ancestral Method, unfiltered, the result of the inventiveness of the Rosarubra winery. The tasting highlights a fine and persistent perlage, marked by the harmony of the aromas of yeast, warm bread, hawthorn flowers and citrus fruits. Balanced on the palate with a powerful acidity and beautiful freshness, they are ideal bubbles for aperitifs, shellfish, but also cheeses and white meats.
Among the many bubbles there is also 830 Cuveé Prestige Rosè Spumante Brut by Agriverde , strictly organic, obtained with Montepulciano d’Abruzzo grapes, vinified with the Italian Method. Soft pink, luminous and brilliant, the nose is intriguing with nuances of red fruit, strawberry, cherry, raspberry and white peach; while on the palate it is creamy, soft, elegant and balanced.
Montepulciano and Pinot Nero, coming from the vineyards of San Severo (Fg), vinified in white then give life to La Dama Forestiera 2013 by d’Araprì, produced in the “Nature” type and only in Magnum bottles, which are refined for five years in the Apulian winery.
Still in Puglia, but further south, the 2014 Noitre Classic Method of Negroamaro is interesting, elegant on the palate and an expression of the cooler and rainier vintage than the previous one. The Noitre is different 2013, which with 2003 and 2007 was one of the hottest years, more charged with color and flavor than the previous year.
The journey through the unmissable bubbles finally arrives in Sicily, where Carricante and Chardonnay give life to Firriato’s Terre Siciliane Gaudensius Blanc de Blancs Brut . The minerality of the Etna vineyards is unmistakable in the Classic Method further south of Italy.
Read Monica’s tastings here
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