When it comes to Italian autumn traditions, castagne e vino novello (chestnuts and new wine) has to be mentioned.
This traditional pairing can be found in Italy from north to south, and Italians think of autumn with the smell of roasted chestnuts and new wine.
Let’s learn more about this wonderful custom on the Italian table!
What is the difference between new wine and wine?
Contrary to what many people think, new wine is not only a younger wine but differs in the way it is made.
The selected and harvested grapes are not pressed immediately, but are macerated in tanks at relatively high temperatures.
The liquid produced by the pressure of the upper grapes on the lower grapes will start a rapid fermentation process; because it is different from ordinary wine fermentation, it will also emit different aromas, such as fresh strawberries and raspberries.
This type of production process is called carbon maceration, and it is a different production process than normal wine maceration and fermentation.
From the organoleptic point of view, in fact, a very different product is obtained: a bright purple color typical of young wines, notable softness and relatively low tannins, especially the fruity ones.
Aroma, in addition to the classic red fruit aromas can also include notes of banana or cinnamon. As a less structured wine, it is definitely not suitable for aging and should be drunk within a few months of bottling.
But how did this aromatic and supple wine come about?
This production method was born in France’s Beaujolais region (Beaujolais), which in the last century was eclipsed by the more famous wine region of Burgundy nearby.
Producers there were looking for a way to elevate their region’s Gamay wines, so they launched Beaujolais Nouveau. In Italy, this production has existed since the 1970s and has been regulated by law since 1989.
Since then, it has become a tradition for most Italian wineries to reserve a portion of the grape harvest for this easy-drinking new wine.
What is the history of this typical pairing?
The love affair between chestnuts and new wine has a long history. Chestnuts are plentiful in the mountains of Italy, and many centuries ago Italian mountain shepherds would trade them for another seasonal product: new wine.
Chestnuts were such a valuable asset in ancient times, a necessity for the survival of shepherds that the chestnut tree was often called the “bread tree”.
In fact, this nutrient-dense food can be eaten not only baked, but also boiled and ground into flour for bread. Those who lived in the area around the chestnut tree used it as a barter commodity;
one of the most sought after products was new wine during the chestnuts’ ripening period, generally in mid-November.
In addition, farmers will eat chestnuts and drink new wine on November 11 (San Martino Festival).
There is also a proverb in Italy about this “San Martino chestnuts and wine”. This is because at that time the farming work is not as heavy as it was in the previous months, so the landlord will dismiss the peasants and give them a severance pay.
You guessed it, severance pay is chestnuts and new wine!
There are many customs in Italy on this day, often associated with the so-called “Summer of San Martino” or the weather temperature in early November.
For example, in the town of Scanno in the Abruzzo region, a fire known as the “Glory of San Martino” is lit in honor of San Martino, with the districts competing to see who has the tallest and longest fire.
In Venice, it is customary on November 11 to prepare the dessert of San Martino, a sweet pretzel in the shape of the saber of a saint on horseback, decorated with egg whites and icing, covered with sugared almonds and candies, while children while running through the winding aisles of Venice, banging pots and pans and singing typical blessing songs.
Also in Palermo the typical San Martino biscuits are prepared and dipped in the Moscato wine from Pantelleria.
November 11 is a symbolic date – Martino, bishop of Tours and St., 11 November 397 AD is the date of the simultaneous burial.
The importance of the date is mainly to mark the time of agricultural work, and is often associated with the age of wine, so much so that it has influenced the proverb “in San Martino, everything must be wine”.
